The port city wants to become the most popular place in the world, but crises and wars overshadow the land of contrasts

Steep switchbacks over countless hills lead my travel companion Firas and me to the mountain village of Bejjeh, located in northern Lebanon. The small town offers a view over some mountains to the Mediterranean Sea. Next, we reach Batrun via alleys that are far too narrow. The coastal town is characterized by an imposing sandstone church with Byzantine and Roman influences.

The further north and closer we get to Tripoli, the more mountainous the surroundings become. Finally, in the bay of Tripoli, we drive up a steep pass road to a viewpoint and enjoy the fascinating contrast of snow-capped mountains and the sea on the other side.

We continue to the ancient monastery of St. Anthony, Qozhaya. The monastery houses the first printing press in the Middle East, first put into operation in 1584. Other artifacts, armor, and weapons lie carelessly scattered on the ground.

The old city of Byblos, also known as Jbeil, has been continuously inhabited for 7000 years and has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1984. The port city was already an essential point for trade routes in Roman and Phoenician times, and in the Middle Ages, it gained strategic relevance during the Crusades. Today, Byblos, located not far from Beirut, is a relaxed haven: A promenade stretches along the beach from the souq, the bazaar, to the city's citadel.

Talking about Kreisky

One evening, Firas invites me to dine in Byblos. At the restaurant, we are ushered into a séparée, with a single large, elegantly set table covered with a variety of mezze or small snacks and appetizers. There we meet Firas' friends Roger and Alice Eddé. Roger Eddé is a lawyer, entrepreneur, and politician. He is the founder of the Lebanese peace party Al-Salam and leads the transformation and repositioning of the Lebanese city as a tourist center in the region.

Eddé talks about "his friend" Bruno Kreisky, who used to visit him often in Lebanon and inspired him to make Byblos a place that people would want to see and attract tourists. Decades later, Eddé built the Eddé Sands resort, which occupies most of the beach and a variety of cafes and restaurants in the historic souq. His wife, Alice, handles the hotel's business and runs a luxury boutique in the center of town on the side. The Eddés' goal, they say, is to make Byblos the most popular place in the world.

A land rich in contrasts

Before my trip, I wasn't sure what to expect in Lebanon because almost all the news about the country is negative: garbage crises, refugees, terrorist groups. There is a lack of perspective among the young people, and many are afraid that another war could break out at any moment.

Some regions in Lebanon are not travelable due to the unstable situation - especially along the Syrian border. Crises, wars, troubled neighboring countries, and the constant threat of terrorism prevent Lebanon from opening up. A wild mix of joie de vivre, history, and beautiful scenery is reserved only for those who dare to make the journey here. And convince themselves that Lebanon has much more to offer than it appears. (2018)