In the Mexican Caribbean, off the beaten track, you have the opportunity to swim with whale sharks.

Seeing and experiencing animals in their natural habitat is one of those travel experiences that first takes your breath away and then stays with you for the rest of your life. That's why I travel with Victoria to the Yucatan Peninsula to the small port town of Chiquila. Then, with a puny fishing boat, we jet a few minutes across the open sea to the island of Holbox.

The elongated island has been an insider tip for travelers looking for the relaxed Mexican serenity, dreamlike beaches, and visiting its animal inhabitants. Additionally, giant hotel castles are still far from being built, and the number of tourists is manageable and dwindling compared to the notorious hotspots of Tulum and Cancun.

A shallow lagoon, varied in shades of blue, stretches for miles along the north side and gives the island a paradisiacal feel. We wade for hours through the water, from sandbar to sandbar, and spot a group of flamingos far away. Deeply relaxed, they live in this dream scenery and do not feel disturbed, even by our visit.

The highlight - the main reason for the higher visitor numbers from May to September - is the whale sharks. There are only a few places on earth where you can swim with the spotted giants. Besides Holbox, Djibouti, Mozambique, and the Philippines, for example, are temporary homes to whale sharks.

Out to the open sea

Shortly after sunrise, we start our boat trip out to sea in a small group. Accompanied by dolphins, we welcome the day.

After about an hour, the mainland is no longer visible, and the sea becomes rougher, the crossing more strenuous. The first doubts arise about whether this ordeal would pay off. But these thoughts evaporate when the sun appears after what feels like an eternity, and we stop at the open sea after three hours.

About 20 small boats, coming from all directions, maneuver through the partly high waves, in which a group of whale sharks moves gallantly. Then, equipped with diving goggles and snorkels, a team of two goes into the water with the guide. Seemingly undisturbed by people and the many boats, the majestic animals drift gently on the sea's surface and offer us the opportunity to accompany them for a short time.

Swimming with whale sharks

Victoria and I are the third team to take our turn. My first glance is downward, into the endless dark blue depths. The waves are high and choppy, but underwater, the situation has changed. We swim a few meters as our guide points to the right. I don't recognize anything and look for a whale shark in the distance. Then I feel a slight pull, turn further to the right, and a giant whale shark passes next to me. I freeze with excitement. I don't want to surface, but I have to. I quickly take a deep breath and dive down again. Unfortunately, I have entirely forgotten the snorkel in the excitement.

Victoria and I accompany the whale shark for a few minutes until it disappears into the vastness of the sea. Then, in a flash, our guide points behind me. Meanwhile, armed with a snorkel, I dive down and recognize another whale shark diving in my direction.

The whale shark's composure and the familiarity of the situation make this moment an incredible experience. Then, finally, the whale shark comes closer and calmly glides just below me. It is an indescribable feeling.

The long drive back is far more bearable. Even hours after swimming with the whale sharks, the overwhelming feeling inside us is excellent. Back on the island, we first notice how proud the inhabitants of Holbox are of their animal companions. On many house walls, the animals are immortalized.

Relaxed life in Holbox

The sandy streets and paths invite us to walk day and night between the colorful restaurants and bars and completely surrender to serenity. We feast on fresh fish and Mexican beer and realize that Isla Holbox is the perfect mix of dreamy paradise and adventure island. It's a place so beautiful, so relaxed, you just want to stay. (2017)