Guatemala: In the jungle where the water disappears
In Semuc Champey, you will find waterfalls, caves, and natural pools amidst tropical vegetation
The morning mist still lies delicately over the peaks of the lush green rainforest in Guatemala's hinterland. Near the village of Lanquin, my tour group is on its way to Semuc Champey, which means "where the river disappears into the earth" in the Mayan language. The disappearing river that flows here is the Rio Cahabon. On the one hand, it feeds meter-deep water basins. On the other hand, its water runs underground past the natural limestone terraces. Dangerous waterfalls and currents appear in some places, making this natural spectacle a breakneck but seductive adventure.
Natural pools of Semuc Champey
Before we get to the pools, our Guatemalan guide leads us to a cave system near a waterfall. Equipped with torches as our only light source, we step into the dark, submerged cave. After a few meters, we are already wet up to our hips and clumsily follow a taut rope.
The path leads 900 meters deep into the mountain. Over rocks, we climb along a river arm. Not only once my torch slips into the water - the darkness robs me of all visibility. Climbing up the waterfall inside a cave is a breakneck undertaking, but it's the only way up. With the help of the rope, we brace ourselves with our legs against the slippery rocks and pull ourselves up. Thundering water rushes toward us, pushing us backward and making it difficult to breathe - for a moment, we feel as if we are drowning. Then, arriving at the end of the river arm, we sway to our destination: a dreamlike, underground pool of water.
All the way into the cave
Our guide points with a torch to a small climbing path at about four meters. He says those who dare should climb up and jump into the pool. My youthful, learning-resistant recklessness is on fire for this hare-brained action.
I dive briefly into the pool to test the depth. Then I climb up the rocks and stand on a ledge. The few torches of our rope team show me only dim outlines - below me, I recognize nothing and cannot see where I am jumping. Adrenaline shoots through my body. I bang on the surface and dive deep into the water.
Jungle of Guatemala
A Guatemalan natural heritage
A blue blade in the green forest
Semuc Champey's natural pools are tiered and stretch through the evergreen valley of the jungle. Like a shimmering green-blue blade, they cut through the tropical rainforest of the nature park.
The longing for a jump into the pools is great on the way down. The warm and humid weather of the jungle exhausts us immensely. We jump into the top pool of the river and let ourselves drift. Jumping, diving, swimming - until we reach the end. Climbing between the slippery limestone terraces requires skill, and there is no turning back.
Swimming in the emerald green pools.
In Semuc Champey, French emigrants have built a utopian wooden spaceship in the jungle's treetops. The treehouse resort makes you dream of getting out yourself, even if life in the jungle is probably far less romantic in the long run than by candlelight and high above the magical terraces of a disappearing river. (2017)
